I took a look around and couldn't find the piece of paper...but I did find some of my notes when I was assembling the harness. Going from memory and my notes, one end of the Audi remote CD cable will be 9 loose wires with connector pins crimped onto them. These go into the mini ISO plugs at the specified pin locations. Here is what I have:
Color ISO Plugs Phatbox Pinouts
Pink/Purple? C2-7 22
Blue C2-8 10, 13
Brown C2-9 4,9,16
Orange C2-10 21
Black C2-11 24
Yellow C2-12 11
C3-18 3
White C3-19 1
Red C3-20 2
The first one is either pink or purple...you will know once you get the cable and see the loose wires. The one color I couldn't remember should also be easy as it will be the only one left once you tag all the other wires!
When you chop off the other end of the cable (round 13 pin connector) you will find 4 extra wires that you won't need, just cut them back out of your way. Also, inside the harness you will find the orange, black, & yellow wires bundled together inside another sheath and wrapped in bare wire (shielding). This bare wire is your ground wire for pin C2-9, make sure you don't hack it back as it needs to be connected to your new 26 pin connecter at pinouts 4,9,16. Take these three wires from the new connector end and twist together, then solder to the bare wire that was wrapped around the orange, black, & yellow wires in the harness. This is your ground/shielding circuit to protect the data/clock/reset connections from interference etc.
Same goes for the two audio wires (red & white). You will find these wrapped in bare exposed wire too, so make sure you carefully peel back the shielding from both, twist the shielding together, then connect both of these to the wire from the 26 pin connector (pinout 3). Without this ground/shielding connected properly you will lose the quality of data going over the wires due to interference, etc.
The Audi cable is plenty long, so long in fact that I have it coiled up 4-5 times around my Phatbox which in my car is mounted in my spare tire compartment. If you wish you could test fit the cable first and then cut it off to the lenght you need before splicing in the new 26 pin connector. I opted to leave mine the full lenght so I could move the system to another car in the future where I might need the lenght. I have no data or interference issues so the lenght does not seen to matter.
Hopefully all of this makes sense...I should have snapped a few pics! I used an OHM meter to identify/test all of my connectors to confirm, I would suggest doing the same just in case my memory is a bit foggy.
Good luck!
Glenn